According to the previous post, the bonding process is ongoing ... Since is the first time, I hope will be OK otherwise I shall repeat the fillet operation ! Observing the mold, it may be seen a small wax fillet around the edges. This is done by purpose in order to produce a sticking effect of the hull shell and get better adherence all around the contour. At the end the molds are used to cover the shells to avoid deformation. ClaudioD
Fillets are polymerized, today I will add the glass reinforcements patches for rudder, fair-lead, fin, mast tubes. In the attached pictures are visible the dry epoxy fillets. Sorry for the image monotony since treating of the same subject. The idea is to propose all details of this joining technique, hoping will be OK. ClaudioD
One really shouldn't confuse monotony with thoroughness - utilising a step by step photographic record is exactly what beginners need. I remember many years ago mixing my first batch of epoxy - an incredibly nerve wracking experience with such an expensive (at the time) product. Once again, congratulations on your progress, the guidance is much appreciated. Regards, Row
Thanks Row, this is exactly what I try to do, believing that a picture is equal to 1000 words ! heheh ! ClaudioD
The balsa patches are bonded, the epoxy/glass patches will be done via the deck opening. Is time to bond the two shells ! Some more wax coats. Added charged epoxy on the edges of the two shells and the mold is now bolted Let's see if it work ! The answer is for tomorrow ClaudioD
Twelve hours later I removed rather easily the hull from the molds. The joint is not super flush but with small amount of filler and water sanding should be OK. The question now is : how strong is and is it water proof ? 56g is probably too much and as wrote before the lamination with 2 x 80g/m² would produce a 10g lighter hull. Some margin may come out from the support budget. The actual weight budget is 494g while the Design DSPL is 508g Being an ancient sport Bow Shutter I found in my cellar the aluminum arrows that fit perfectly for the Swing Rig mast tube of 5mm. This arrow is lighter then the equivalent carbon tube. ClaudioD
This morning I started the shaping of Fin and Rudder out of plywood 1.5mm sandwich . These parts will covered with glass/epoxy before inserting the axis. Meanwhile the hull is covered with polyester filler ClaudioD
Some wet sanding and "typical" leaking pin hole found at the reversed bow side ! The filler added 3g to the previous hull weight. ClaudioD
Working around the hull and canopy. Preparing a drawing to explain what I will do. Fin & Rudder are almost ready. Little tired I need a nap ! ClaudioD
This is showing how I will make the sliding canopy. This technique will be retained for other models. ClaudioD
Great job, Claudio. Things are really progressing well. I don't think the weight is too great a penalty...may be offset by the slippery shape. I was a target archer for many years, but my aluminum arrows aren't skinny enough for a mast tube ;-) Bill
Hi Row, not really, but in 2013 can be done... hehe !! Now I need to make the cradle otherwise I cannot continue the assembly.... One thing for sure is the strength of the joints I used and verified again with the deck cutout. The hull is very sturdy suggesting again that 2x 80g/m² would be a better choice. Now I'm trying another way to close the deck electronics access with a sliding technique as explained above. This mean that for larger hulls, in difficult places, I could use the silica/epoxy charged resin joints and for continuous lines the joint could be a glass ribbon across the joining line. Merry Christmas !! ClaudioD
For my Lab the floor is good enough. When I bought the flat was covered by a carpet. 35 years old. The picture with the wooden Master ...! ....................................... ClaudioD