Hi Maximo, Could you tell me what the sq cm of the sails are for the JIF-2? I built according to your plans except that I made the horrible mistake of using plywood for a keel. It swelled and split the hull. What type of aluminum is stiff enough for the keel? The boat is fabulous in light airs especially. I've been able to out-sail some larger boats with the JIF-2. Thanks for your help bob betts
Hi Usagi: I use aluminum 6063 or (if you found) "Dural" I don't know the word in english, is the aluminium use to make planes. the sq cm of the sails = 2250 cm2. the max. for the class rules. Cheers
All common aluminum alloys are the same stiffness. They may have different strength, fatigue, and corrosion properties, but they are all approximately the same stiffness. Not that I could tell you what size and shape are stiff enough. I've built 3 full sized boats out of plywood without running into much trouble. And I'm told it is OFTEN used for the keels of model boats. Perhaps the type you used wasn't waterproof? Try cutting off a little piece and boiling it in water. Luan plywood is often no good for water exposure. Of course, even if it passes the boiling test, plywood should be sealed. I made a plywood daggerboard (southern yellow pine) that got a bit rough, although it didn't fall apart. On the other hand, a boat someone else built that I owned got a bit of snow in it, and the luan started to fall apart.
Re: Rg65 - "DIRTY DEEDS" Well - a few moments of "stolen" time, and I finished up the interior radio compartment of "DIRTY DEEDS" - a JIF65 hull design. I'm not sure how those FOOTY guys manage to get their fingers, hands, and parts into those tiny hulls ... but this one was a bit of a challenge. Managed to get stuff in the approximately correct location for balance and the photo below was taken from the stern looking forward into the center of the hull around and behind the keel trunk. I added some labels to help identify the items. Everything works, no interference of swing arms, push rods, main sheet or servo wiring - so time to button up the deck and complete the rig location. "As time permits" - of course!
Re: Rg65 - "DIRTY DEEDS" If you think that's tiny, try a radio installation in the following: http://www.polecataero.com/gallery2/d/947-2/20070516+-+pinko+-+01+-+fuse.jpg FYI, I think those squares are about an inch. Maybe an inch and a quarter. QUOTE=Dick Lemke;55723] snip I'm not sure how those FOOTY guys manage to get their fingers, hands, and parts into those tiny hulls ... but this one was a bit of a challenge. snip[/QUOTE]
Re: Rg65 - "DIRTY DEEDS" Well - Christmas Eve - alone home with the wife, kids doing their own Christmas stuff, new granddaughter doing just fine and starting to gain weight - so decided to give "myself" a present - "Time" to hide out for a while after the past hectic several weeks. Tonite I had time to final fit the slightly oversize rear deck on DIRTY DEEDS boat (USA # 04) and then attach to hull in permanent fashion. Used slow epoxy plus silica powder to thicken, and over-applied on all horizontal surfaces of rear hull. I had made a stand/jig so I can simply place a small section of wood across mid section and gently clamp each side down. Then a clamp at the stern and some tape along edges where a bit of light was showing. Tomorrow when tape and clamps come off, I will be able to tell how much more filling I need to do. Probably will trim the deck overhang back to flush with hull - then fill any small gaps and finally give entire deck a few coats of clear finish. Then on to fitting the rig to the hull and assuring all lines are providing clearance and sufficient movement to handle sail positions Merry Christmas to you bunch of sick, twisted sailors. Dick
Re: Rg65 - "DIRTY DEEDS" Hi, it took really a long time, but finally "No.3" was finished. Yesterday, she hits the water for the first time. http://www.rg65.de/forums/attachment.php?aid=4335 http://www.rg65.de/forums/attachment.php?aid=4336 No.3 was originally based on the lines of Bantock's Prime Number and was modified to fit the requirements of the RG65. Simply scaling a M-Boat would end up with to less displacement (roughly 750g). The hull is made from two layers 105g/sqm glass fabric laminated with Epoxi resin in a female mould. She ist fitted with 450g lead on a 30cm keel fin, a Multiplex M-Link RX5 light receiver, a Graupner C261 rudder servo and a GWS IQ-200 MG for the sails. Using AAA cells for power suppply this results in a total weight of 850g. The lines are drawn for a maximum weight of 950g, so the lead bulb can be increased to 550g for more wind. She sails good. Tacking is ok, reaching is like on a tracks. Speed - I do not know up to now, this will be shown by the first race. Btw, why "No.3"? - it's quite simple. She is my third RG-65 and 3 is a "Prime Number", too
Re: Rg65 - "DIRTY DEEDS" Nice looking boat. Hope it performs to your expectations. Blew the dust off one of my incomplete boats and started working on it yesterday once again. Strange how cold weather, snow and ice takes enjoyment out of building. Added last coat of paint for hull, need to varnish deck and apply decals - then go for first sail. Now that I have the "bug"" (urge) to keep going, the car will be outside the garage, and I will be inside where I have elbow room. Cheers, Achim - Dick
Re: Rg65 - "DIRTY DEEDS" Hi, Dick, I feel it just the other way round. I don't like to go in my workshop in the basement when the sun is shining and the water is fluid. Good luck for your project. Achim
Re: Rg65 - "DIRTY DEEDS" @ Maximo, Do you have plans/dimensions for a "B-rig" for the JIF-2? bob betts
Re: Rg65 - "DIRTY DEEDS" Wow - didn't realize this project had been strung out for so long! Well, most of the work on "DIRTY DEEDS" is done, and my son-in-law will soon have his own boat to sail. He has been very patient, but then I guess "new" son-in-laws may be that way. It took a while to balsa strip the deck, but blame is on me for sidestepping the project completion too many times. I took some photos tonite, and realized I still have a few items to attend to. I need to ..... .....make/install a fabric hatch cover for the rudder hatch .....add some weather proofing (water seal) under main hatch .....trim off a lot of loose ends on various lines .....add a downhaul .....add a red waterline stripe (tape) .....recharge batteries in order to meet the "splash date" for this RG65 this weekend, weather permitting. It will be the first outing for this hull/boat so will see if any areas I forgot to adjust. Still playing with a better way to make an adjustable connection for the jib-to-deck attachment. This Spectra line will work, but I don't like it for holding knots - seems too slippery, and CA glue kind of defeats the purpose of adjustment. Anyway - enjoy the photos, and if all goes well (it sails and not sinks) I will try to post some on the water shots. Maybe a few video clips if the boat cooperates.
Re: Rg65 - "DIRTY DEEDS" Dick, You are so patient! This boat is complete all the way to including graphics and sail numbers. I can never stand the wait, so a new boat is tested with a primer paint finish, no sail numbers or any other cosmetic touches. Shoot,, the last one went in without a real deck cover - just some packing tape. Anyway, you have done a really nice job. Congratulations!
Re: Rg65 - "DIRTY DEEDS" Eric - thanks - and I agree. Since this is hull/boat #3 for me, I have photos of grandson's boat (Hull#1) with packing tape only on the front deck - just for testing. Once it proved viable, I had no reason to test further. Cheers, Dick
Re: Rg65 - "DIRTY DEEDS" Well - water tested this weekend - very light wind on Saturday, much more on Sunday. I forgot to epoxy mast base pin in place so it slid up the mast. Without the locator pin, I declined to sail in heavy wind, as I was concerned mast might kick out to one side, and I would have lost the rig = swim/kayak/boat to retrieve. I did find a couple of updates I need to do. Mast base is one, and I need to add a vang, as even in light winds, mainsail twisted off way too much since I am sheeting from mid-boom. So will add vang, glue mast base pin, and then trim a bit off the top of the mainsheet post, since the boom would touch it and prevent swing to opposite side in a light wind tack. But - best of all - it floated and virtually NO water inside. Because the wind was so light, I declined to video - but once changes are made I will try a video again. In the meantime, enjoy these first water pics.
dick, what kind of adjustment do you want to be able to do on the jib club attachment. up and down , fore aft, or both...
Hi Marc - Right now, I'm using Claudio's idea of a Spectra line instead of a fishing swivel. It allows me to get the club down closer to deck. Also, my jib is "fractional" so if I build a "B" or "C" sized rig, using the line I can run it back through a different screw-eye. Some of Claudio's ideas are to have attachments below deck to bring jib even closer, but I was too far along to build in a small "well" to hold the jib attachment plate. I like the idea that I can quickly loosen the line. This raises the jib a bit - but also lets me add in weather helm if needed by letting the mast rake back. Loosen the jib attachment, tighten the back stay and I'm done. Don't have to mess with the jib halyard or forestay tension at all. Thus I can move/adjust as desired. I don't think I will need much fore/aft attachment locations since I hit it pretty well on first try. But - If I increase jib size, I will need to move rig aft and then might need the other jib attach locations. Only maintenance should be line replacement at end/start of sailing season to assure there is no wear through, although there are no sharp edges on boom attachment point or through the screw eyes. Spectra line is 80 lb. test as well. Still wish I could find a good way to tie knots that didn't slip. One bad thing is Spectra line seems very slippery. CA glue will work to hold knots, but then defeats purpose of a knot. Bowsies don't seem to work really well - they work - but ....... I am going to check out some kite line instead of fishing line. It may be bigger in diameter and allow a better "grip" for tie offs. Dick
so you want fore/aft and up down... take your screw eyes and turn the 90* you will only need 2. fore and aft. get some small Diameter Carbon tube or rod. small diameter fuel line. that is barely able to slip over the ends of the carbon. a split ring or similar that will slide over the rod but not over the fuel tubing..... basically you are creating a small "rack" for jib...line from the club go through the split ring then to the deck with a bowsie adjustment. use the fuel line as stoppers, similar to the arrangement you won't be able to slam the rig to the deck as much. but it would also make for an easy swap of sail. you would just need multiple carbon rods...
Hi Marc - yup - did that on the rear boom - just need to match on jib boom. If you look close in previous photos, the rubber grommets are visible, but difficult to slide. The mainsail boom (with tubing) slides much easier. I've added a closeup but you have to look close since tubing is clear - look for 3 shiny spots along main boom - one is almost above mainsheet post. Conversion will be done when I de-rig it for winter. (or I'll make son-in-law do it since it's his boat.) :lol:
on myvfic, footy, and soling I use the silicon RC fuel tubing for my adjusters. slide them in or out to make the adjustment. much easier than knots, hooks, and don't have to worry about a bowsie slipping. although if you do a half turn around the bowsie. the smaller slipper spectra holds fine..
OK - managed to do most of planned updates and minor adjustments. 1) made a mast base "pin" and epoxied into bottom of mast tube. 2) Wrapped bottom of tube with line (orange) to prevent splitting of mast tube in heavy winds with heavy side loads 3) Added a loop of line for mast attachment of Vang (white) line 1:3 adjustment 4) Ran Vang line to a piece of polyethylene tubing and tied line (white) to tubing. Allows Vang line to be tightened or loosened simply by sliding tubing forward or aft on the boom. 5) Orange line on right goes under 2 tubing pieces which provide resistance. Pulling on line adds out haul to foot of main. 6) Main sheet post has been shortened so mast doesn't catch on it when tacking in light winds. 7) Still need to add cleat for jib-to-deck line adjustment If we have some stronger winds than first outing will try to get some photos to post.